Maurice j



M. J. SCHLESS JEWELRY SETTING.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 27. 1919.

1,319,251 Patented Oct. 21,1919.

Maurice Mme UNITED sTATEs PATENT OFFICE.

I mnnfcn J. :SCHLESS, on NEW YORK, 1\I. Y.

JEWELRY-SETTING.

To all whom it may concern:

Be. it known that'I, MAURIcnJJScHLnsis,

a citizen of the United States-of America;

residing at New York city, New York,have

invented certain new and useful Improvements in Jewelry-Settings, of which the following is aspecification.

My invention relates to an improved jewelry setting or mounting, and is more especially designed as a setting for diamonds. a It is generally recognized that the manner in which a precious stone, particularly a brilliancy. A super or stone if poorly or disadvantageouslyset will lose a large part of its natural luster, while an inferior stone may be so skilfully set asto have its natural *luster materially enhanced. With this'condition in mind the principal object of my invention-is to provide a setting of such character that the natural brilliancy or luster of a stone set therein will be retained to the fullest extent, "and the setting will complement the stone in such a manner that the two will virtually form an entity, the setting contributing to and enhancing the luster of the stone.

Another object of the invention is to so construct the setting that the placing of the stone therein will require but a limited amount of skill on the part of the stonesetter, whereby the character of the work done by highly sldlled workmen, and by those less proficient, will be substantially the same.

A further object of the invention is to provide a setting by means of which the appearance of a relatively inferior stone will be improved to such an extent as to make it difficult for anyone but an expert to distinguish the same from a stone of superior quality.

Stated in general terms, the invention consists in a setting having a faceted portion which is designed to complement and practically merge with the faceted upper portion of a precious stone, so that the stone and that portion of the setting will appear as one.

The invention is illustratively exemplified in the accompanying drawing, in which- Figure 1 is a plan view of my improved setting showing a diamond in position therein; Flg. 2 is a side elevational view with a part of the setting or mounting broken away to better illustrate the manner of retaining the stone in position; Fig. 3 is a Y Specification of Letters Patent.. v Patented- Oct, 21, 191 9, 1 Application filed June 27, 1919. Serial No.'307,'12 0.

horizontal sectional viewin the line 33 of Fig. 2;"Fig. 1 is a plan view of a-blankfor a modified form of the lower part of the setting; Fig, 5 is 'a side-elevational view 6, 7 and 8 are views of further modified forms for the lower part ofthe setting.

In all embodiments of the invention I prefer that the form of the ,upper partof the Q setting which adjoins the upper portion of the stone shall be the same, while if desired the lower part of the setting may be varied in different forms of the invention.

Referring in detail to the drawing, and

particularly to Figs. 1 to 3, the upperportion of the diamond'is denotedlO, the girdle 11, and the base-12. As is usual, the upper portion and base .are faceted in order that the stone may reflect light and thus have that luster which isone of the distinguishing characteristics of a diamond.

The setting for the stone comprises a crown portion 13 and a base portion denoted generally as 14, which portions may or may not be integral, as desired. The crown portion l3-is faceted like the diamond itself, and consists of a substantially frusto-conical plate having at what would be its apex an opening for the reception of the stone. In order that the stone may be firmly seated the wall of the opening in the crown portion 13 is provided with an annular groove 13 wherein the girdle 11 of the stone is received. The construction somewhat resembles the bezel of a watch case for retaining the glass in position. The crown portion 13 may be of metal capable of taking a high polish, and I have found that platinum and,

white gold are well adapted for the purpose.

The base portion 14 of the setting comprises a hub or connecting center 15 having radiating arms 16 which have their outer ends connected to or formed integral with the lower edge of the crown portion 13. The arms 16 constitute a desirable form of construction for the lower part of the setting inasmuch as the spaces therebetween permit light to strike and be reflected from the lower part of the stone, and also because access may be had through these spaces to the inside of the setting for cleaning purposes.

In Fig. 4 I have shown a blank from I which a modified form of the lower part of the setting may be formed up, In this figure 15 is the hub or connecting center from which the substantially triangular segments 16 radiate, each segment having the opening X therein. WVhen the blank is formed up, it has the appearance indicated in Fig. 5, the lateral edges of the segments 16 being closely juxtaposed, and the entire structure out of a metal sheet, to provide the centerportion 15 and the radiatingsegments 16 which, unlikethe segments 16 of Fig. 4c,

are all connected together and have their outer edges 16 pointed or star shaped. The segments are shaped somewhat like a frame having the depressed body portion a and the relatively raised edge or rim 1). Each seg ment also has the central opening Y.

The structure of Fig. 7 resembles that of Fig. 6 the difference being essentially that the upper edge l6 is plane and not serrated as is the case with a lower setting portion made from the blank of Fig. 6.

In Fig. 8 there is disclosed a setting portion 16 which is faceted and provided with openings Z. The upper edge of the setting portion is castellated, that is it is formed with spaced projections 16 It will be understood that the lower setting portion may be made of any suitable material, such as glass or metal, the latter being preferred.

Gopies of this patent may berobtained for The complete setting, with the stone held therein, maybe mounted in a ring, brooch, bracelet, or any other desired object, in a :manner well known in the jewelers art.

What I claim is 1. A jewelry setting having a faceted crown portion provided with an opening for the reception of a stone.

2. A jewelry setting having a substantially conical faceted crown portion provided with an openingfor the reception of a stone.

3. A jewelry setting having a faceted crown portion provided with a substantially central opening, the wall of, said opening being grooved toreceive the girdle of a stone.

l. A jewelry setting, comprising a faceted crown portion provided with an opening for the reception of a stone, and a base por tion having spaced light admitting openingsj therein. I v 5. The combination with a faceted precious stone, of a setting therefor including afaceted metal crown portion complemental to the faceted portion of the stone.

In testimony whereof I h'ave-aflixed my signature in presence of two; witnesses.

MAURICE 'J. soHLEss.

Witnesses CLARIOE FRANOK.

OTTO MUNN,

Washington, .D. O.

five cents each, by addressing theiwoinmissioner of Patents. v 

